Friday, February 21, 2014

My Osaka

I. LOVE. OSAKA! I remember the first time I came to Japan to travel, I loved Tokyo so much. I still do love Tokyo, but Osaka has a charm like no other city in Japan. The stereotype is that Tokyoites are too rigid and not as nice whereas Osakans are relaxed and friendly. I’m not going to get into a battle between the two cities because I really do like them both, but instead I’m going to tell you about Osaka and why I like it.

Did you know Osaka is the 3rd largest city in Japan? Actually I always thought it was the 2nd largest until I just looked it up on Wikipedia haha! Yokohama is the 2nd largest, but literally I’ve never heard anything about Yokohama…what do you do there? Is there anything special?? In any case, Osaka is big, BUT not too big. This is one reason I like Osaka. Even though it’s big, it’s small enough that you can get to know it pretty well. However, you never run out of things to do/see, and you never get bored. I feel like there are so many different districts in Tokyo (which is why it’s really fun to visit) that you can never really get to know each nook and cranny. There are even some parts in Osaka that I haven’t really explored too much, but as for the main parts, I know them pretty well. I don’t have to use my phone map anymore to get around. I understand all the train lines. I’ve found that as you get away from downtown, the suburbs can have some nice scenery and a rural atmosphere. After coming home from a bustling night out, I love the quietness that greets me in my humble little town of Shijonawate. It’s actually beginning to feel homely.

There is this feeling in Osaka that is kind of hard to explain, but I’m going to try. It’s like we know we are the underdog, but we don’t care. We know that Tokyo is more popular. However, we are ok with it because we know how cool we are…or something like that. We aren’t jealous of Tokyo’s fame because we are so satisfied and content with Osaka that we don’t really think about Tokyo that much. We know Osaka is fun and that if people come, they will be shocked at how cool it really is. I guess in short, we are badass and we know it.

The next point is probably the main one that everyone knows. Osaka is famous for its food. We have a lot of original dishes. People come here to eat. Even the people in Osaka seem to be a little heavier set that people from Tokyo and other regions. When you think of Osaka, you automatically think of takoyaki. For those who don’t know, takoyaki are little batter balls with bits of octopus inside topped with a savory sauce, fish flakes, mayonnaise, and seaweed bits. It is hot and delicious! …that’s what she said. :P There are other dishes from Osaka besides takoyaki though. My favorite Japanese food is another staple of Osaka…kushikatsu! It’s deep-fried battered stuff such as meat, cheese, veggies, and dessert on skewers that you dip in a sauce and eat off the stick. SO DELICIOUS! Let’s not forget to mention okonomiyaki either. Although I may be a traitor for saying this, I’m gona say it anyway…I do love Osaka’s okonomiyaki, but I think I like Hiroshima’s style even better because they put noodles in it. Oh, by the way, okonomiyaki is savory “pancake” with your choice of meat, veggies, and other things cooked inside. It’s also topped with the same things as takoyaki, but you can get many kinds of versions of it. So my point is, if you are looking for some hearty, flavorful Japanese food (these are words you don’t usually associate with Japanese food), come to Osaka!

As I previously touched on, Osakans are believed to be to be more outspoken and friendly. One reason for this is because they speak what is called Kansai-ben. This means that they speak with a Kansai (the region of Japan Osaka is in) dialect. More specifically, Osakans speak with Osaka-ben which is the Osaka form of Kansai-ben. Kansai/Osaka-ben is famous for sounding…well…rough and casual. I have been studying Kansai-ben, and I’m proud to say that I can speak a fair amount and comprehend most of it. Osakans take pride in their dialect. To Tokyoites, Kansai-ben may sound kind of tough and rude, but for the most part, I think that people outside of Kansai kind of see it as cool, cute, or friendly. For whatever reason, perhaps because it is quite different from standard Japanese or because it’s so colorful, Kansai-ben seems to be quite popular compared to other Japanese dialects. One of the most fun things for me is to study Kansai-ben. It is literally something I have studied and pursued on my own because I honestly enjoy it.

When I first found out that I would be placed in Osaka, I didn’t realize how incredibly lucky I was. I am now convinced that I have THE BEST placement in all of Japan. There is nowhere else I’d rather be. Besides all of the reasons I’ve just told you about, let me explain why Osaka’s location is so great. Osaka is basically in the heart of Japan. I can easily access any part of the country from Osaka by plane, car, bus, regular trains, or shinkansen (bullet trains) without it taking very long. I am literally next door to Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe all of which are famous places in Japan. Tokyo is only a two to three hour bullet train ride away! I’ve been there several times since moving here. I’ve taken planes to the highest and lowest parts of the country, Hokkaido and Okinawa, and it only took about 2 hours. Hell, Korea was only like a 2 and a half hour plane ride away from Osaka! When I went south to Hiroshima, that was only like a 2 hour bullet train ride away, too! It is so incredibly convenient to live in Osaka!

Now I am going to introduce Osaka to you using pictures (be warned, there are a lot). I want you to get a feel for what it’s really like. I will show you some famous sights, but also small places that I like. I want you to see Osaka for what it’s really like, the Chicago of Japan: beautiful and rough at the same time, lots to do and see, and a ton of personality. Maybe I’m being biased because I’m from Chicago. Did you know that Osaka and Chicago are actually sister cities?

First off, welcome to Dotonbori. This is the most famous place in Osaka. It's located in the Shinsaibashi/Namba area (it's kind of in between both so I'm not sure which one to say) of Osaka which is referred to as minami (south) by the locals. The giant Glico Man sign is one of the main symbols of Osaka. This is where the fun is at. At night, Dotombori comes alive. Did you know the city in Blade Runner was modeled after Osaka, particularly Dotonbori?
Day version.


That's the famous mechanical crab!


Night version.
Next up, we have Amemura (American Village). It's full of fun bars, clubs, and restaurants. It's located in the Shinsaibashi district. Why is is called American Village? Perhaps because many foreigners hang out here? Or maybe because there are many foreign restaurants? Then again, there are more than just American foreigners in Japan. I suppose maybe they call it Amemura because there is an American flag painted on a building, a fake Statue of Liberty, and a Starbucks, McDonalds, and Burger King all on the same street.

The main strip in Amermura.
"Triangle Park" in Amemura. On Halloween, people in costumes
fill the streets here and have an all out party. Did you know
that it is legal to drink on the streets in Japan?
This is L&L, a bar in Amemura. I don't go as much now, but
I used to go to this bar a lot when I first moved here. They have
great sangria and hookah.
This is an izakaya (Japanese pub) chain called Torikizoku.
They are all over the place, but we often go to this one in Amemura.
Ahh, Balabushka. I think I have written a whole post about this
place before. It's a sport's bar in Amemura with free darts and
billiards. It's a huge place, and the staff is wonderful.
I <3 you guys!
Uncle Steven's in Amemura. Really great margaritas!
Slices in Amemura. The closest thing to real
pizza I've found besides Costco.
Now let me show you the actual Shinsaibashi area...

This is on Midsuji which is the main street.
It's lined with high end places like Gucci, Prada,
Louis Vuitton, etc. Parallel to this street is
Shinsaibashi-suji which is a covered shopping
arcade full of cheaper shops.
El Pancho, perhaps the restaurant I've been to the most
in Osaka. Located right outside of Shinsaibashi Station.
This is Cinquencento. It's a martini bar, and every drink is 500
yen which is awesome! Ya, maybe I still don't know how
to pronounce the name right, but it's a great place.
This izakaya is called Kyushu. Any big party/gathering we
have usually begins here. All you can drink, good food, and
good company.
As the sun goes down, if you are in the Shinsaibashi area,
you are guaranteed a wild time. This is Midosuji at night.
Right on Misosuji , there is a HUB which is a British
pub chain. I love the HUB! I often go to this one and the
on in Umeda (north Osaka). Delicious fish and chips!
Perhaps my favorite club in Osaka, JAWS. My perfect weekend
always includes going here. It's cheap, and there is good music!
I have met so many cool and interesting people here.
I have already explained Namba a little. Dotonbori is kind of like the divider between Shinsaibashi and Namba, both of which are in south Osaka. Namba is a very beautiful area full of nooks and crannies. There are countless shops, malls, and restaurants, a huge station complex, and a movie theater and record store I often go to.

This is the main open area of Namba.
This is Namba Parks, a beautiful mall with a theater, good
 restaurants, and a nice winter illumination.
Now I'm going to take you to Umeda, or kita (north) as the locals call it. Umeda is the business district of Osaka. Therefore, it is full of nice expensive places.



This is the Umeda Sky Building, an impressive sight.
You can see some beautiful views from the top.
Osaka from the Umeda Sky Building.
Kitashinchi is a high class bar district in north Osaka. Recently I have been going here every weekend.

Captain Kangaroo. One of the only reasonably priced
bars in Kitashinchi.
I love the atmosphere of Kitashinchi.
There are many tall buildings, and it's quite clean.
Next up is Tennoji. It's in the southeast part of the city. In the Shinsekai area of Tennoji, there are some famous attractions. There is Tsutenkaku which is the tower of Osaka, Spa World, a zoo, a mascot called Billiken, and the first kushikatsu restaurants. Shinsekai also has a reputation for being kind of dangerous because of yakuza (the Japanese mob).

This is Shinsekai in Tennoji. So flippin' cool!
This is Tin's Hall in Tennoji. It is a popular
bar among JETs. They always serve up a
nice Thanksgiving dinner every year.
Next I'll show you a little bit of Kyobashi. For me, it is the connecting hub from my town to downtown. I usually transfer from train to subway here. It's often overlooked, but it has a lot of interesting parts. The Keihan and JR stations both have good malls inside, there is a HUB, a Don Quixote, and a lot of little bars/hole in the wall places. I would also consider this to be the red light district. Once you start getting away from the stations, you see some pretty sketchy stuff like brothels and prostitutes. I feel like I see the most outwardly drunk people commuting home here.

The river area in Kyobashi is so nice. Many festivals take
place along the river bed.
This is the Coms Garden near the subways station. There are
a lot of little restaurants in it. I often walk through here at
dawn after partying all night. Looking up at the open sky is
always somehow comforting.
Very close to Kyobashi is Osaka Castle, another very famous
sight. The park surrounding the castle is a nice place
for a stroll.
This next picture is of Rinku Town. It has a very ocean-y feel to it because, well, it's right on the ocean...but something about the western style outlet mall makes it feel very California-esque. Rinku Town is right across for Kansai International airport. This place has THE most BEAUTIFUL sunsets!


Next is the Osaka Port area. It is famous for the Kaiyukan which is a very big aquarium. There's also a giant Ferris wheel and a mall. Osaka is so big that sometimes you forget it's a port city and the ocean is nearby.


On the outskirts of Osaka, you can find some pretty rural and natural spots. This next picture is in a town of Osaka called Mino. It's famous for its waterfall and yuzu fruit products. Very beautiful!


I can't show you Osaka without showing you food. So here you go!

Okonomiyaki.
Takoyaki.
Kushikatsu.
Last, I want to show you a couple places in my town of Shijonawate. I've already made posts on my town, but I didn't want to leave it out of my Osaka post because after all, it is an important place to me in Osaka.

Near my train station after a rain shower.
From my balcony. I love the way the sunset illuminates
the buildings. Also, I love the hills in my town.
I'm lucky enough to have two really great bars in walking
distance from my home. This is the Hills Cafe. There are
always dogs here!
The classiest most homely bar in the world
where everything is perfect. White and Cigar.
I hope I could give you an insider perspective of what Osaka is really like. It truly is an amazing place!

My friend Gina, also a JET, kindly featured a nice, edited version of this post on her blog. Be sure to check it and her blog out! Thanks Gina!
http://ginabearsblog.blogspot.jp/

2 comments:

  1. Is Uncle Steven's really still open? I was a bartender there in 1992!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yes, it's still open! That's so cool haha

    ReplyDelete